Vintage Trimmings red and white glass Christmas ornaments

How to Date a Glass Christmas Ornament

How to · loom

Somebody hands you a box of ornaments from an attic and asks whether any of it is old. This is the order I check things in, and it takes about ten seconds per ornament once you know what you're looking at. None of it requires a loupe or a price guide.

The short version

  1. Look at the metal cap
  2. Hold it up to the light
  3. See what it hangs from

1. Start with the cap

The cap tells you more than the glass does, which surprises people, because the glass is the part you're looking at.

American ornaments from the thirties and forties have caps stamped Made in U.S. of A. That exact wording, with the "of," is the old one. Midcentury caps are crimped into a scalloped edge and often carry the Shiny Brite name.

A smooth, thin, perfectly round modern cap on something being sold as antique is worth a question. Caps do get replaced over the years, so a new cap doesn't prove the ornament is new. But an old cap is very good evidence the ornament is old, because nobody puts a 1940s cap on a new ball.

2. Hold it up to the light

Old glass ornaments were lined on the inside with silver, which is what makes them mirrored. Hold one to a window and you can't see through it.

Then there are the ones you can see through, and those are the interesting ones.

During the Second World War the metal went to the war effort, so ornaments were made without the silver lining. They came out pale and translucent instead of mirrored. Some have a little tinsel dropped inside to fake the shine, and most have simple hand-painted stripes on the outside instead of an elaborate finish.

People pass those over constantly because they look cheap next to a mirrored one. They're usually the oldest thing in the box.

The dull ones are often the good ones. If it doesn't sparkle, look harder rather than putting it down.

While we're here: mercury glass has no mercury in it. The silvering was done with a silver nitrate solution. The name stuck from an older technique and it confuses everyone, including sellers who should know better.

3. See what it hangs from

Same wartime shortage, same result. When metal was scarce, ornaments got paper or cardboard caps instead of metal ones, and a loop of string or yarn instead of a wire hook.

If you find one of those, stop and put it somewhere safe. It's older than nearly everything else you're holding, and it survived eighty years of being packed and unpacked with a paper hat on.

If it still has the box

Boxes are worth as much as the ornaments to a collector, and they date the set for you.

Cellophane windows came in after 1955. A box with a cellophane panel is later than that. A plain printed box with no window is earlier.

Wartime boxes sometimes carry patriotic graphics, and the well-known one shows Uncle Sam shaking hands with Santa. If you turn one of those up, that's the whole box worth keeping intact rather than splitting.

Hand-blown or machine-made

Pick it up. A hand-blown ornament is uneven in a way you feel before you see. The wall thickness varies, so it doesn't sit balanced on your palm, and the shape has a slight wobble off true. Look at where the cap meets the glass and there's often a small irregular neck rather than a clean uniform one.

Machine-made ornaments are perfectly round, perfectly even, and perfectly boring in the hand.

Neither is a date on its own, since hand-blown ornaments are still made today in Poland and Germany. It's a quality signal rather than an age one, and it's worth knowing because a hand-blown ornament from 1990 is a better object than a machine-made one from 1960.

What a modern reproduction looks like

Reproductions are made openly and honestly, which means they're not usually trying to fool anybody. The confusion comes secondhand, when something is thirty years down the line from the shop that sold it.

The tells are mostly in the decoration. Modern glitter is brighter and more uniform than old glitter, which was coarser and has usually gone dull and patchy. Modern painted details are sharper and more saturated. And a reproduction often has a printed paper tag or a hangtag hole that a genuinely old ornament wouldn't.

Go back to the cap. It's the most reliable single thing on the ornament.

What any of it is worth

Honestly, most individual glass ornaments are worth a few dollars. Millions of them were made and most families have some.

What carries value is a complete boxed set, an unusual shape rather than a ball, wartime unsilvered examples, and anything with a maker's name still attached. A box of twelve matched ornaments in the original packaging is worth more than the same twelve loose, which is the opposite of how people usually think about it.

So if you inherited a box, don't split it up before you've looked at it properly.

Some glass in the shop now

These are the ones I have listed online at the moment. Most of the ornaments here never make it to the website, because a fourteen dollar ornament takes the same hour to photograph and list as a two hundred dollar piece and they sell before I'd finish.

In the shop now

The rest of the Christmas guide

Brass, Spode, tins, the table, and what to buy as a gift rather than for yourself.

Read the guide Shop Christmas
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